I just returned from a week-long visit to Loreauville to celebrate my 86 year old mother’s birthday. The eight hour drive from Atlanta on Sunday provided some contemplative time so I could bolster my spirit to assess the upcoming family drama common in large families.
Arriving late Sunday evening, I walked through the carport, stopped to pet some feral cats, and opened the unlocked back door. AMD [Anna May Vaughn], my mother, regal as all get-out, sat all bundled up in her recliner in the living room. We hugged and kissed and the scent of Toujour Mois enveloped me. She listened and spoke little as I updated her on my Atlanta family. When I stopped talking, she commented, “Pat, you’re a vision.” We so seldom see each other that I thought later about the powerful meaning tied up in her comment. I suggested we retire and continue our visit in the morning, so her Sunday caretaker assisted her to her bedroom. I kissed her good night and was struck by her frail, spent appearance.
Monday morning I rose early to walk three miles. One step outdoors, and I was hit by a wave of heat and humidity. An acquaintance of mine who flies helicopters in Africa claims that Africa is cooler than Louisiana. Walking on the gravel driveway to Main Street, I turned right and down the sidewalk the full mile to the Rural Clinic manned by Dr. Romero. Nothing much has changed, but everything has changed.
TMae’s home is still there, but Picasso’s son must live there now. His front yard abounds with abstract art. HOWs [Houses on Wheels] sit on our family property at the site of my grandfather’s general merchandise store. A female resident dressed in a bra and briefs unabashedly mowed her front yard as I walked by. Dr. Finley’s home has new occupants. My good friend Nancy Finley lived there, Tan’s barber shop is gone, but LHS is still there and looks amazing. Garfish and snow cones are for sale at the old post Office. A body shop is housed in Gam’s Garage. Tootie’s Beauty Shop has disappeared, and Miller’s market sits at the site Granger’s Store.
That morning I managed to find my way near Lydia to pick up AMD’s best friend at her home. I drove around before I got to her house and was amazed at the huge, beautiful cane fields! She described planting and harvesting of the cane as we drove back to Loreauville. AMD moves little, but her mind is on target. Her friend has dementia but still cleans her own home and tends to her plants. We enjoyed a nice lunch. I was disappointed that AMD seemed nostalgic and sad as I left to drive her friend home. Aging is horrific.
Tuesday, my sister Wanda and I drove to New Iberia to shop and drive around, bought diet cokes at Sonic, then spent the rest of the day visiting with AMD.
On Wednesday, Wanda and I drove on HWY 90 to pick up my daughter Alicia at the New Orleans airport. Her flight from Atlanta was early. We hustled to the vendors near the French Market, a smidgen of the market pre-Katrina. We ate crawfish etouffee, fried oysters, and bread pudding at Mother’s, then hopped into an air conditioned van for the three hour KATRINA REBIRTH tour.
Our last stop was to the stunning Katrina Memorial developed by Coroner Frank Minion. Six marble mausoleums hold the remains of some of the unidentified dead. The labyrinth design stands atop the ground that was formerly the Charity Hospital Cemetery. The reflective granite walls inspire a meditative feeling.
Thursday I grocery shopped and cooked 100 confetti meatballs and my special Italian sauce for AMD’s birthday dinner. I topped the pineapple chocolate birthday cake I baked with AMD letters cut out of cake. That stupid decoration looked like a kindergarten project, so I told her the grandchildren designed it. For lunch we ordered hot dogs and chili on French buns, onion rings and fries from the Tiger Inn, just down the street. Twenty family members attended AMD’s dinner birthday celebration, and we had only two loud exchanges and skirmishes the entire night. Thank God for her hearing loss.
Friday morning Alicia and I walked another three miles. We followed the sidewalk leading to the new Post Office. The sidewalk ends abruptly in a cane field, so Alicia, my city-bred daughter, suggested we trek through the cane field. I refused. I walked on the headland. I had to explain that the headland was very important for farming vehicles and as a parking place for teens, so I hear. She asked why they wanted to park cars there. Oh, my.
We walked along the defunct railroad track and down Lake Dauterieve Road. I told her about my childhood best friend and next door neighbor, Dankie, who was like a brother to me. After Dankie and I fed worms to garter snakes, we sicced crawfish on them. Then we played marbles and placed nickels and pennies on the railroad track so the train could flatten them.
Later in the morning, we visited my ninety year old mother-in-law in St. Martinville, ten miles away. So cute but very short, she’s shrinking by the minute! For lunch we ate fried shrimp and oyster poboys from Richie’s Drive In. Alicia toured my sister-in-law’s goat cheese factory, bird habitat, Shetland pony farm, and played with hairless cats.
Back to Loreauville so my 34 year old corporate executive daughter could ride bikes with her nieces and nephews. Friday night we ate boiled crabs at Jane’s Seafood in New Iberia. I got lost driving back to Loreauville, and my Garmin thinks Loreauville is a distant planet, so I had to stop at a Food and Fun to ask directions. I was embarrassed because the Food and Fun is located on the Loreauville Road.
Saturday my sister Willette, her daughter Nadine, Alicia and I shopped at Tinsels and Treasures at the Cajun Dome in Lafayette. I bought a pricey matching copper ring and artsy cuff bracelet made in Croatia. My sister Laurene told me that some blacksmith in Portage, a fishing community located on the levee, probably pounded out that copper jewelry for people like me. When she saw my Chanel toenails, she asked why I had the initials of Chantel Chatagnier from Catahoula painted on my big toes. She’s a riot, isn’t she.
Saturday afternoon we sat on swings in the backyard. My cousin Mark Vaughn arrived with his grandsons, adorable fourteen month old twins. Saturday night Laurene made meat pies with all sorts of Cajun concoctions for the huge group of family members.
Sunday I dressed and drove to the Loreauvile cemetery at 6:00 a.m. for a special visit to Dad and Cindy’s tombs. I watched the sun rise. The air was cool, birds sang, and I marveled at the beautiful Louisiana tradition of interring the dead above ground. I attended early mass, prayed for strength, told AMD goodbye, and Alicia and I left for Atlanta.
wow u really write so well.....if only I would have an ounce or ur articulation??? I feel the same way that u do when I visit Loreauville. All the memories flood back like the floods that pooled in our yard since we were apparently living on top of the lowest pt in the area...and we swam and almost drowned each time as the water rushed down the ravine toward the bayou.
ReplyDeleteIt was a blast this visit. Now I wanna walk down the where the old railroad tracks were and reminisce